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- Know your target and what’s beyond
Last updated March 20th 2026
If you’ve ever priced out a gun build across six different websites, you know the pain. The same BCG is $89 at one store and $149 at another. The same Glock slide goes on sale at three different retailers on three different days. Nobody has time to open 20 browser tabs and play detective every time they need a barrel or a trigger.
That’s why we built this. We pull live gun parts pricing from Brownells, Palmetto State Armory, Optics Planet, MidwayUSA, Primary Arms, and 80+ other retailers so you can compare everything in one place. No guesswork, no tab juggling. Every price links straight to the retailer so you’re always getting the real, current number.
Pick your platform below to narrow it down, or use the filters to search across everything. Whether you’re building from scratch, upgrading, or just replacing a worn-out part, the best price is somewhere in here.
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Glock Magazine Loader 9MM 40 357 380 45GAP Compatible with Glock 43
-23%Tacfire Standard Mil-Spec End Plate for AR-15, Black - MAR038
Why Gun Parts Prices Vary So Much (And How to Stop Overpaying)
Here’s something most people don’t think about: the same exact gun part can be listed at wildly different prices across different stores. Not talking about knockoffs or different brands. The same SKU, same manufacturer, same part number. I’ve seen Aero Precision uppers with a $60 spread between two major retailers on the same day.
Why? A few reasons. Some retailers operate on razor-thin margins and make it up on volume. Others run higher markups but throw in free shipping or loyalty discounts. Manufacturer MAP (minimum advertised price) policies mean some stores can’t show their real price until the item is in your cart. And then there are the sales cycles. Black Friday, Independence Day, manufacturer rebates, and random mid-week flash sales all shuffle the deck.
The bottom line: if you’re buying gun parts at the first price you see, you’re almost certainly overpaying. Our price comparison tool pulls from 80+ retailers in real time so you can find who’s actually got the best deal right now, not last week.
Most Popular Gun Parts Categories
We’ve broken our parts comparison into dedicated pages for the platforms that have the deepest aftermarkets. Each one has its own filters, brand selections, and buying guides tailored to that specific platform.
AR-15 Parts are the king of the aftermarket. There are more AR-15 components available than any other firearm platform in history. Barrels, BCGs, triggers, handguards, stocks, charging handles, lower parts kits, and complete uppers from hundreds of manufacturers. If you’re building or upgrading an AR, start here.
AR-10 / .308 Parts share some DNA with the AR-15 but compatibility is trickier. DPMS and ArmaLite patterns aren’t interchangeable, and not every “AR-10” part fits every .308 AR. Our comparison tool helps you sort through the mess.
Glock Parts are the second-biggest aftermarket in the gun world. Optic-ready slides, match barrels, flat-face triggers, and extended controls for every Glock model from the G17 to the G43X.
1911 Parts have been refined for over a century. Match triggers, bull barrels, ambidextrous safeties, wood grips, and every spring and pin John Browning’s design requires. Whether you’re building a carry gun or a race gun.
AK-47 Parts have modernized dramatically. Magpul Zhukov furniture, SLR Rifleworks handguards, ALG triggers, and M-LOK rails have turned the AK into a seriously ergonomic platform.
SIG P320 Parts take advantage of the modular FCU design. Swap grip modules, slides, and barrels to build exactly the P320 variant you want. X-Carry, AXG, Wilson Combat grip modules, optic-cut slides, and more.
SIG P365 Parts cover the full P365 family including the P365X, P365XL, and XMACRO. Optic-cut slides, threaded barrels, flat triggers, and extended magazines.
Shotgun Parts range from stocks and forends to choke tubes and barrel extensions. Mossberg 500/590, Remington 870, Benelli M4, and more. Turn a basic pump gun into a purpose-built tool.
Gun Parts You Should Never Cheap Out On
Not all gun parts are created equal, and some are worth paying a premium for. I’ve learned this the hard way more than once.
Barrels. Your barrel is the single biggest factor in accuracy. A cheap barrel will group like a shotgun pattern at 50 yards. Brands like Ballistic Advantage, Faxon, and Criterion exist at different price points, but even the entry-level options from reputable manufacturers will outshoot a no-name barrel. Chrome-lined or nitride-treated bores last longer and clean easier than bare steel. Don’t skimp here.
Bolt carrier groups. The BCG is the heart of any AR platform. A properly staked gas key, correct bolt metallurgy (Carpenter 158 or 9310 steel), and a quality coating (phosphate, nitride, or nickel boron) make the difference between a gun that runs and a gun that doesn’t. Toolcraft is the industry’s open secret for affordable BCGs that actually meet spec. I’ve run them for thousands of rounds with zero issues.
Triggers. If you’re doing any kind of precision shooting, a quality trigger is the single best upgrade you can make. The difference between a gritty mil-spec trigger and a clean single-stage drop-in (LaRue MBT-2S, CMC, Geissele) is night and day. You’ll shoot better immediately.
Recoil springs. Boring? Yes. Critical? Also yes. A worn-out recoil spring causes feeding issues, battering, and inconsistent cycling. They’re cheap to replace and you should do it on a regular schedule, especially on carry guns and high-round-count range guns.
OEM vs. Aftermarket Parts: What’s Actually Worth the Upgrade
The aftermarket world wants you to believe every factory part is garbage that needs replacing. That’s not true. Some OEM parts are perfectly fine. Others genuinely benefit from an aftermarket upgrade. Knowing the difference saves you money and headaches.
Where OEM is fine: Magazine releases, bolt catches, takedown pins, grip screws, buffer retainers. These are simple parts with simple jobs. Unless you have a specific ergonomic need (like an extended mag release for competition), the factory parts work great. Swapping them out is mostly cosmetic.
Where aftermarket shines: Triggers are the obvious one. Handguards too, especially free-float rails that improve accuracy and give you M-LOK real estate. Charging handles with extended latches make manipulations easier (Radian Raptor, Geissele ACH). Muzzle devices are another area where aftermarket options (SureFire, Dead Air, SilencerCo) dramatically outperform basic A2 flash hiders.
The gray area: Barrels, BCGs, and buffer systems. Factory versions from quality manufacturers (BCM, Daniel Defense, SIG) are excellent. But if your gun came from a budget brand, upgrading the barrel and BCG to something from Criterion or Toolcraft can transform the rifle. It depends entirely on what you’re starting with.
How to Find the Best Deals on Gun Parts Online
Deals on gun parts follow predictable cycles if you know when to look. The biggest sales happen around Black Friday/Cyber Monday, Independence Day, Memorial Day, and Presidents Day. Palmetto State Armory runs deals practically every week, and Brownells does regular coupon codes and free shipping thresholds.
Manufacturer rebates are another angle most people miss. Companies like Vortex, Holosun, and SIG run periodic rebates on optics and accessories that stack with retailer pricing. If you time it right, you can save 20-30% off what looks like the “sale” price.
Blem (blemished) and cosmetic-defect deals are the real insider move. Ballistic Advantage, Aero Precision, and others sell factory-second barrels and receivers with minor cosmetic imperfections at significant discounts. Functionally identical, just a small scratch or finish imperfection you’ll never notice once it’s on the gun. I’ve bought multiple blem barrels and couldn’t find the blemish on any of them.
Or you could just use our price comparison tool above and skip all the hunting. We aggregate prices from 80+ retailers in real time so the best deal is always right in front of you.
Mil-Spec vs. Commercial: What the Specs Actually Mean
“Mil-spec” gets thrown around like confetti in the gun parts world, and half the time it doesn’t mean what the seller thinks it means. Here’s the quick breakdown on the specs that actually matter.
Buffer tubes: Mil-spec tubes have a 1.148″ outside diameter. Commercial tubes are 1.168″. The difference is tiny but the stocks are not interchangeable. Most quality stocks today are mil-spec, so if you’re building from scratch, go mil-spec and don’t look back.
Barrel steel: 4150 CMV (chrome moly vanadium) is the actual mil-spec steel. 4140 is softer, lighter, and slightly less durable under sustained fire. For a range gun or hunting rifle, 4140 is perfectly fine. For a duty gun or something you’re going to push hard, 4150 is the move. Chrome lining adds barrel life. Nitride treatment is the modern alternative that’s arguably better for accuracy while still being extremely durable.
Trigger groups: A mil-spec trigger group has specific pull weight, reset, and component specs. It’s reliable but not pleasant to shoot. Almost everyone benefits from a quality aftermarket trigger, whether that’s a $90 LaRue MBT-2S or a $250 Geissele SSA-E. The mil-spec trigger is a floor, not a ceiling.
Where We Pull Our Prices (And How Often)
Transparency matters when you’re trusting a website to show you the best price. Here’s exactly how this works. We pull pricing data from over 80 online firearms retailers including Brownells, Palmetto State Armory, MidwayUSA, Optics Planet, Primary Arms, Sportsman’s Warehouse, GunMag Warehouse, Rainier Arms, and dozens more.
Every price link goes directly to the retailer’s product page. We don’t sell anything ourselves, we don’t hold inventory, and we have no incentive to steer you toward one store over another. The lowest price wins. Period. We use affiliate links, which means we earn a small commission if you buy through our links, but it never costs you a penny more. The price you see here is the price you pay there.
Building vs. Buying: When Parting Out Makes Sense
One of the most common questions I get is whether it’s cheaper to build a gun from parts or just buy one complete. The honest answer: it depends entirely on the platform and what you want.
AR-15: Building makes sense here, especially if you want specific components. A parts build lets you choose exactly the barrel, trigger, handguard, and BCG you want. You can build a better rifle than most factory options at the same price point, or match a factory rifle’s quality for less. The AR-15 parts page is built for this exact use case.
Glock: Possible but less practical. You can build a complete Glock from aftermarket parts (P80 frames are gone now, but OEM frames pop up). The real value in Glock parts is upgrading what you already own: better trigger, better sights, optic-cut slide. Check the Glock parts page for current pricing on upgrades.
1911: Building a 1911 from parts is a time-honored tradition, but it requires fitting. Unlike AR-15s, 1911 parts don’t just drop in. You need some gunsmithing knowledge (or a good gunsmith) to get everything running smoothly. Worth it for the experience, but not always the cheapest route to a functioning pistol.
AK-47: Parts kit builds require specialized tools (a hydraulic press, rivet tools, headspace gauges) and significant knowledge. Most people are better off buying a complete AK and upgrading the furniture and trigger. The AK-47 parts page focuses on the upgrades that make the biggest difference.
Frequently Asked Questions
Browse Other Platforms
1911 Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices • AK-47 Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices • AR-10 / .308 Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices • AR-15 Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices • Glock Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices • Shotgun Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices • SIG P320 Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices • SIG P365 Parts & Upgrades – Compare Prices
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